Monday 29 December 2008

Arabic Scrabble

One of the Christmas presents I bought for my sister in the souk in Damascus was the Arabic version of Scrabble.


This is a total rip off of the official game (there are no copyright laws in Syria), and let's hope Hasbro don't get their hands on it, though I don't really know how they could take action against some shopowners in the souk who would completely ignore them anyway.

We had a go at playing it this weekend! And a very sterling effort we made too I think. With a little help from Dante (our ginger cat).


We both had a dictionary (we were playing real Arabic words!) and my sister (who has a degree in this language) had to give me rather more assistance than normal in a Scrabble game, while our father played on my laptop and posted snarky comments about us on his Facebook page ("it would help if they knew more Arabic", which is true of course...).


Eventually we gave up. It was late, and it was taking far too long to work out what we could do with our letters - and there were still so many unused tiles in the box! But the scores were 164 to 157 (I won't say which was which!), which I think is very decent.

Saturday 27 December 2008

We wish you a Merry Christmas and a Very Excellent New Year!!

Capilla de los Condestables, Burgos Cathedral © KR


On New Year’s Day 2008, we went for a walk in Crystal Palace, among the ruins of the venue of the Great Exhibition of 1851 – an easy bus ride from Brixton on the number 3 bus, which transports you to the rather ghostly traces of what must have been an amazing spectacle until it was destroyed by fire in 1936… K had to give a paper in Oxford on 4th January, and has resolved never to ruin the Christmas holidays like that again.

In February, we celebrated our twelfth anniversary, and K was viva’d in Oxford for his PhD, which he passed with minor corrections.

At Easter, we visited Waddesdon in the snow, and joined the National Trust, which inspired us to visit London properties, such as William Morris’s Arts and Crafts home in Bexleyheath, The Red House, which we did the next day. It was still snowing on Easter Monday when we walked up to Alexandra Palace for a drink with Helen G.

M gave a ridiculous number of lectures this year, including a series of three in April, on Córdoba, Granada and Seville, to members of The Art Fund. She is resolving to learn how to say ‘no’ but already the line-up for 2009 suggests she has a lot of practising to do.

In May, M led a group of V&A Patrons on a tailor-made guided tour of ‘Islamic Spain’, visiting Granada, Córdoba and Seville over the course of a week, and then staying on in Spain for the rest of the month, travelling from south to very north researching for the book she will be writing in Spring 2009. K joined her for the last two weeks, and we celebrated his 32nd birthday in a lovely local place at the end of an alley in Zaragoza, which was about the only restaurant we could find open. Almost everything in the city was closed, in the calm before the storm of the international expo! We had arranged to meet Glaire in Toledo, but also met Jeremy quite by chance, and spent an excellent few days in their company. In Barcelona, it was wonderful as always to see Sarah, Julius, Leila and Isaac, and spent what later turned out to be our last few days in their old home.

In June, K graduated for his PhD in Durham Cathedral, attended by his parents and his (then) 94-year-old grandfather. He wore a very exuberant red and purple gown, which he did not want to give back at the end of the day. (There are some photos here)

In July, we were visited by Bev and James, our long-lost friends returned from Australia for a round of visits. It was brilliant to see them and spend so much time with them! K gave another conference paper, at Leeds International Medieval Congress, and M had the honour to attend her mother’s graduation ceremony (photos here), in Guildford Cathedral, which she suspected and later confirmed was the church that scared Damien in The Omen. We spent a lovely evening with Alison, Steve and Ellie, a few months before the arrival of Nathan.

In August, M took her customary two weeks off work to make the most of living in London, but the weather was terrible, so it was largely spent indoors. Though we did go with Isla to the Canary Wharf Jazz Festival, and picnicked in the rain – something the English will have to get used to doing more and more, I suspect. Gareth celebrated her birthday with us, at Gastro in Clapham. At the end of the month we went to Hereford for a few days to celebrate K’s mother’s 60th birthday and retirement party.

In September, we spent a very pleasant day with Cornelius, visiting buildings all over London which threw open their doors for Open House Weekend – the highlight was definitely the former Granada Cinema in Tooting, now a bingo hall, built in the 1930s in high Victorian Gothic style (see http://cinematreasures.org/theater/9424). We joined K’s family again to celebrate his grandfather’s 95th birthday. K ran a 10k charity run at Hampton Court in aid of Cancer Research, which he made in 58 minutes, and he’s now addicted to running!

M left for New York at the end of the month, to participate in a curatorial exchange at the Metropolitan Museum for a month, but was away in the States for six weeks altogether, with a week in California at the beginning (book research again – honest!), and most of a week in Philadelphia attending the Historians of Islamic Art Association conference. Again K joined her for the last two weeks, having given a paper at the Sixteenth-Century Society conference in St Louis. We were in the States for the Presidential Election which was hugely exciting, especially because of the excellent result. Election night with Albert at Cleopatra’s Needle, watching the early results on a TV whose sound we could not hear and whose subtitling software was spitting out gobbledegook, followed by a late supper at Karen’s in Spanish Harlem where the result was declared and you could hear the whooping in the streets from all over Manhattan! Walking back through the Upper East Side at 1 in the morning with groups of happy people periodically shouting out, ‘Yes we can!’

We were visited in New York by another long-lost friend, Rebecca (though sadly Adam couldn’t make it), and we celebrated the release of her debut EP! (details here).

M was back in London for four days before flying to Damascus to install an exhibition of World Ceramics, the first time the V&A has ever loaned an exhibition to the Middle East, which was hailed in the British press as the right kind of diplomacy (see the excellent Guardian comment by Simon Jenkins here). She then stayed on to supervise it for the first half of its run, and was in Syria for five weeks altogether, trying to make the most of her one day off a week to visit some of the amazing classical, early Christian, and Crusader sites, not to mention Islamic, for which Syria is justly famous. A fantastic experience.

She is very happy, though, to be back home just in time for Christmas, and to be spending the festive season with loved ones. We’re confident that 2009 will be a good year, with Obama at the helm, and we look forward to all the happy hours we’ll spend with friends and family over the coming months. A very Happy New Year to one and all!

Sunday 21 December 2008

The Shoe Incident

I first heard about this from a taxi driver in Damascus. I didn't understand everything he said (my Arabic is not that good) but I gathered that it involved Bush, Iraq and a shoe, and that he was gleeful about it, so I figured it must be something good. The next time I had internet access I read up on the whole thing on the BBC website - the by-now-famous incident in which Iraqi journalist, Muntadhar al-Zaidi, threw his (Iraqi-made) shoes at thankfully-outgoing President George W. Bush, and is now, as the "Baghdad Clogger", hailed as a hero throughout the Middle East (and through large parts of the rest of the world too I suspect). I just want to encourage anyone reading this to visit the excellently therapeutic site, http://play.sockandawe.com, and have a go for yourself!

Slow Blogging

I opened this blog at the end of September, planning to use it as a way of keeping in touch with friends and family during my two big autumn trips, to post anecdotes and photographs of my experiences in California and New York (six weeks from late September to early November) and Damascus (five weeks from mid November to late December), which have kept me away from home for about the last three months. The kind of diary I have always liked to keep on big trips, from the two-week A-level Geography field trip to Iceland (written in a book), to the weekly emails I sent during my PhD research year in Madrid. A blog seemed to me the natural evolution of these earlier forms of communication. In the end, of course, I was far too busy doing the things I was in the States and Syria to do, and did not have the time to sit down and compose any bloggings.

This has caused me to be the brunt of some ridicule from my sister. It turns out, however, that I am not alone in wanting to take my time over crafting something that I think is worth being posted here - it seems that unwittingly I am part of an internet phenomenon, known as 'Slow Blogging'. There is a whole article about it in the Guardian, which I serendipitously found in one of the occasional issues I managed to buy in a little shop on Straight Street, and hungrily read cover-to-cover, meaning I now know more about current international news than I have done for years, despite the feeling of isolation from it all that I felt in Damascus.

Slow Blogging, according to Todd Sieling as reported in The New York Times, is "a rejection of immediacy ... an affirmation that not all things worth reading are written quickly", and represents "a willingness to remain silent amid the daily outrages and ecstasies that fill nothing more than single moments in time".

You can read the full piece here, but I would like to add my endorsement to the writer's final paragraph:

"Let's hear it for all those who take the time to think, study and reflect before they post; who do not feel the need to slap the first thing that comes out of their head straight onto the web. People who refuse to update five times a day, or even once a week. People who value quality over quantity."

That might be my own manifesto for this blog! I will, over the coming weeks, post anecdotes and photographs of my experiences in America and Syria, and other notes and thoughts, but don't expect this to happen too quickly!