Sunday, 13 February 2011

Finally on the move?

Perhaps it's time to announce that it looks like we're buying a flat. I have been a bit wary of saying anything to anyone, after our unsuccessful attempt to buy a flat in our block last year - but though we haven't exchanged contracts yet (hope to do so this week) it all seems to be going through smoothly this time around. Of course we keep touching wood every time we think or talk about it - actually we should probably be carrying little bits of wood around in our pockets, or like the Log Lady in Twin Peaks, remember her? Funny how we still cling to these superstitions, no matter how secularised we are in the rest of our lives...

Anyway perhaps I will say no more on the subject until it is signed and sealed. But we have decided to prepare ourselves for the putative move by starting to clear out our possessions - of which we have far too many anyway so it is a Good Thing To Do. In the past we used to move every few years, so would have a cathartic clear-out at every move, but we have been where we are now for about 7 and a half years so we have been acquiring without shedding.

Mainly books. We ran out of bookshelf space long ago, and a while back I adopted a one-in-one-out policy. We have now weeded a very large stack of novels and unread non-fiction books and yesterday I spent several hours putting them up for sale on Amazon. (If you're interested, you can view my storefront here). By the time we were leaving to go out for dinner at Abi's, I had sold one!! Very exciting, even if only for the grand sum of £1. Thing is, now I obsessively check my email to see if I have sold any more - none so far...

Today I have gone through my clothes and cupboards and filled three bin liners with stuff for the charity shop and another of rubbish. It's a start - and quite satisfying too.

Next stage is getting rid of the furniture that there just isn't room for in the new place. Anyone for a lectern??


This was an impulse buy from the junk shop on Brixton Hill ... last summer? It looked smaller on the street than it turned out to be once we got it into the flat! I think we thought we might one day live in a huge farmhouse with an enormous kitchen where we could use this for standing cookery books on... Also, even though its tracery is obviously rather damaged, it has a fantastic dedicatory plaque:

which announces that it was 'Presented to the Dulwich Road Wesleyan Mission Hall by the Trustees as a Memorial of the late Miss Craig's interest in and generosity towards the work of the Mission. 1898'. The antiquarians in us got the better of us! Who was this Miss Craig and how did her interest and generosity manifest itself? And how did the lectern come to the sad pass of sitting outside the junk shop on Brixton Hill...? At least we have admired and loved it while it has been with us... But alas, no room for extraneous lecterns in the new flat.

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This evening we have given ourselves 'repetitive form injury', as K so wittily put it just now, by filling out - in duplicate - visa forms for Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan and Iran, where we are going in April!! Very exciting - though we have not had much time to think about it. It's an organised tour, so once the visa hassle is out of the way we don't actually have to do anything, except turn up at the airport at the right time - but the forms are a killer, especially since we hardly handwrite anything any more. Next thing to arrange is to be fingerprinted at the Iranian consulate - an arrangement insisted upon by Iran ever since the British government introduced compulsory fingerprinting for any Iranian citizens wishing to enter the UK. Ahhh, so great to live in a liberal democracy...

Sunday, 6 February 2011

Joyreading

The cuts imposed by the coalition government have resulted in many local councils planning to cut library resources, and appallingly over 400 local libraries are now threatened with closure. Yesterday was 'Save our Libraries' day with protests and Shhh-ins (!) going on all across the UK. In solidarity we took ourselves off to the British Library, where I felt more than ever what an amazing privilege it is to be able to consult the material there.

This time, I was reading the manuscripts! I called up some of the volumes of the Layard papers - the enormous accumulated correspondence of Sir Austen Henry Layard (1817-94), discoverer of Nineveh and distinguished diplomat in Her Majesty's government. The first letter I looked at was from Henry Cole thanking Layard for the offer to source reproductions of Italian sculpture for the South Kensington Museum; the second was from the Earl of Clarendon offering Layard the position of ambassador to Spain! I think about the third or fourth letter was from Gladstone, another from the designer of the Albert Memorial seeking to ask Layard's opinion - at that time Commissioner of Works - on the monument's orientation! I flicked through these volumes increasingly amazed at the worthies of the Victorian age whose handwriting was passing beneath my gaze... I could have lost myself for hours just dipping in and out of this correspondence which I am sure sheds amazing light on the international political and cultural concerns of the times.

I was looking at these to read the correspondence from Rafael Contreras, the restorer of the Alhambra from 1847 to his death in 1890, which was addressed to Layard between 1870 and 1873 while he was ambassador in Madrid. He was there until 1877 but the letters stop in 1873, I'm not sure why. Though Contreras has been little studied, he has gained the reputation of defacing the monument rather than protecting it, of having an unscientific approach informed by Orientalism. Reading his increasingly plaintive letters, I developed quite a lot of sympathy for him - he was clearly passionate about saving the Alhambra for the nation and about the important discoveries he believed he was making. There aren't many letters and they don't say all that much, but they show the difficulties he was facing in terms of lack of funding for his restorations and the criminal unconcern of the local authorities for the building. It was a difficult time in Spain, with the Carlist insurrections, and he is obviously sorely touched by this - including the imprisonment of some of the Carlistas in the Torre de la Vela. Amazing to see his handwriting and his signature for the first time - which in the earlier letters has a rather pompous flourish, and by the last letters seems rather careworn, spattered with ink splodges.

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After the library, we went to see The Painter, a new play about Turner by Rebecca Lenkiewicz at the Arcola Theatre. They have just moved to a new location and it's a great warehousey kind of space, and it was a nice production, but alas not a great play. It just couldn't decide what it was about - his art? the origin of his genius? his relationships? his mad mother in the attic? We couldn't help comparing it unfavourably with Red. But Toby Jones as Turner was really good, and we'll go and see other things there as it was nicely done.

Weekend in Scandinavia

Oslo Opera House, built by Norwegian architects Snøhetta in 2008

Last Friday I flew to Oslo for the weekend. The exhibition I have co-curated on Owen Jones and the influence of Islamic design was opening at the Kunstindustrimuseet, and my co-curator Abraham and I had arranged to attend. We both had a really fantastic time. I had never been to Norway before - to Iceland once for a two week Geography field trip while doing my A-levels, and had really loved it, but didn't know much about Oslo and felt rather unprepared. But what a great city! Small - with only 600,000 inhabitants (only 4 million in the whole of Norway - half the population of London!) and you can walk round most of it in a morning, as I did on Saturday. I headed straight down to the harbour to see the magnificent Opera House, the first structure in a regeneration of the whole port as a cultural quarter - they're building whole new buildings to house their museums! - and has been rapidly embraced by Oslo's residents as a city landmark as well as a touchstone for the current heyday of Scandinavian design. It was covered in snow and the day was slightly hazy with a mix of sun and fog giving it the effect of seeming a little unreal, but the great thing is you can walk all over it, and people do - taking their dogs and kids for a walk...! Amazing views from the top as well.

And our Nasjonalmuseet colleagues were very hospitable. On Friday evening, we were invited to a special dinner in the National Gallery, which houses Munch's The Scream, along with past and present directors of other Oslo museums, who were all extremely friendly and down to earth. On Saturday we attended the formal opening in the afternoon, which featured the premiere performance by piano and violin of a piece of music composed in Seville in 1847 by Ole Bull, a famous Norwegian violinist and composer who was said to be so handsome that women fainted when he came into the room! This piece - alas I can't remember the title - was composed for Isabel II of Spain as a gift (of course they were rumoured to be lovers), and was only rediscovered a few years ago in the Spanish royal archives! It was an amazing piece too.

The exhibition looks fantastic - it's the first venue, and as we weren't involved in the installation, it has suddenly jumped from paper sketches to real exhibition hang, though of course the success of the design has much to do with our Norwegian colleagues. It seemed to be really well received, and apparently one lady was so overwhelmed by the positive message of how Islamic ornament was rediscovered in the 19th century and applied in European design that she was seen almost crying on her way to the cloakroom... Abraham and I took ourselves off for a celebratory dinner that night at the wonderful Viennese-style Theatre Cafe, and treated ourselves to reindeer steak - rather nice, a gamey version of a nice beef fillet steak.

On Sunday morning I went to the Viking Ship Museum for a bit of Norwegian cultural history - an old-fashioned but beautiful museum with astonishing exhibits: two complete and one fragmentary 9th-century ships used as burials and loaded with grave goods to see their passengers well on their way to the afterlife... I couldn't believe some of the stuff which has survived intact due to the excellent burial conditions: wooden sleds, even a whole carriage, cooking utensils, food and drink receptacles... but what I was most amazed by were the fragments of Byzantine textiles which had been cut into strips and sewn onto clothing as precious and ostentatious appliqués. Those Vikings really got around!

In the afternoon I went back to the Nasjonalmuseet to give a lecture, which was quite well attended and, I think, well-received. Afterwards our host, the Kunstindustrimuseet's director and chief curator, and his partner, took me on a little excursion up into the mountains to see the terrifyingly steep world-famous ski jump, and also in time to see the sun setting over the fjords... God, it was beautiful!


We had a delicious dinner of smoked lamb and berries at the Frognerseteren Restaurant, watching the sun set over Oslo, while they told me about Norway and I resolved to bring K here as soon as possible. He'd absolutely love it. When they told me about a cruise you can take up the coast on the old Post Office boat, and an 11th-century wooden church on an island in a fjord with views of glaciers behind, I was sold! We're planning to escape London during the Olympics next year so this might just be the perfect solution!

I came home via a couple of days in Copenhagen because I wanted to visit the recently reopened David Collection with its wonderful jewel-like rooms of Islamic art. I found the Danes a little snooty about Oslo which slightly upset me since I had had such a lovely time there - but Copenhagen is also a beautiful city, much much larger in comparison, and my hosts at the museum friendly and welcoming. What a great few days!

Monday, 3 January 2011

Hogmanay


We climbed up Craiglockhart Hill, near where my sister lives in Morningside, to see the midnight fireworks light up the Edinburgh city horizon on New Year's Eve. This is a local tradition - we were a bit early so not really sure if we were in the right place, but soon noticed a cluster of seasoned old timers with a coolbox (transport the champers in it and sit on it afterwards - very sensible!) so decided they knew what was what so we'd lurk near them, and soon we were surrounded by very jolly groups of people wishing each other a happy new year. Much better than being one of the estimated 80,000 people to crush themselves into the Hogmanay Street Party on Princes Street, thank you very much...

It also seems to be quite a tradition to light sky lanterns and since it was a really clear, crisp night - beautiful - we could see these floating up into the sky from all over Edinburgh. The fireworks display was spectacular but could have gone on for longer! It lit up the outline of Edinburgh Castle, and for ages afterwards the smoke floated over the Salisbury Crags and Arthur's Seat, silhouetting them against the night (my camera battery died at that point, alas).


On New Year's Day, we climbed up Arthur's Seat - along with most of Edinburgh by the look of it! There was practically a queue to reach the trig point!


We made a little picnic of sausage sandwiches and a thermos of tea and ate them with icy fingers sitting on the side of the hill looking out over the city towards the Firth of Forth - until we were just too cold and had to start walking again to warm up!


Mission accomplished on - what was it? Drives in the Scottish countryside and visits to castles: we saw some fine ruined craggy Scottish castles at Craigmillar and Roslin (which was the site of another freezing picnic, but amazing setting, looking down over the glen... check out those icicles!)



as well of course as the wonderful 15th-century Roslin Chapel, every stone surface of which is exuberantly carved, with symbols and scenes that have given overactive imaginations a run for their money for the last 500 odd years, leading it to be claimed as one of the likely resting places of the Holy Grail. The tiny building is massively over-visited, which I fear has more to do with Dan Brown and The Da Vinci Code than with an appreciation of medieval architecture - but perhaps that's unfair.

We went round Holyroodhouse free of charge, thanks to K calling in a favour. The Scottish Parliament building is an amazingly thoughtful piece of architectural design - I would just like to know how well it works as a building. We took a long walk to what must be the archetypal "quaint pub" - the Sheep Heid Inn in Duddingston, though we didn't play skittles... And as to big fat books, I read Barbara Kingsolver's latest, The Lacuna, which was excellent. Oh and extra bonus excitement - K bought himself a fine tweed suit.

And as far as we were concerned, it was a White Christmas, even if the official definition is a single flake of snow actually falling on Christmas Day. I can't find anything to say whether the bookies have actually declared 2010 a White Christmas or not, but there was snow everywhere in Edinburgh on Christmas Day... It was fab.

Thursday, 23 December 2010

Happy Christmas

Photo © ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London 2010

I have been inspired by the current V&A exhibition on Diaghilev and the Ballets Russes to use this wonderful stage backcloth from the Wedding Scene in The Firebird - designed by Natalia Goncharova in 1926 - as my Christmas image this year. Though it deserves to be seen much bigger than this (click on the image above for a bigger version), preferably in the flesh - I saw it today and even though I was prepared for it to be big, it was astonishing. At over 10 metres wide, it's the largest object in the V&A's entire collection. But beautiful, and somehow wintry and Russian and therefore appropriate for Christmas.

We're heading for Edinburgh on Christmas Eve, to spend Christmas and New Year with my sister, who moved there a few months ago. She is finally - and very happily! - living in the city she loves (she went to university there), has a job in the sector she has been training for and trying to break into - editing/publishing - and using her Arabic degree. And I am just happy to have the excuse to spend time in Edinburgh, having only been back there a couple of times since she left university.

We haven't made many plans to do much once we get there - over the last few days we have been focusing our thoughts on actually getting ourselves there, since last week the Arctic weather conditions which we've been suffering from in the UK this month returned. Many Christmas travellers have had their flights or trains cancelled, and the roads have been a nightmare. It seems to be improving now - touch wood - and one of my colleagues successfully made it to Edinburgh on the same train route we're taking tomorrow evening...

We'll be cooking our traditional braised duck recipe for Christmas lunch, then after that the only other thing we have planned is a visit to the new Scottish Parliament building later in the week. In between we'll probably go for drives in the Scottish countryside and visit castles and quaint pubs and watch M R James stories on DVD and read big fat books. Can't wait.

So all that remains is for me to wish you all a very Merry Christmas and all best wishes for an excellent New Year - may 2011 bring peace and happiness to you all!

Sunday, 5 December 2010

East Window

Shirazeh Houshiary's window

Yesterday we went with my parents to the Family Carol Concert at St Martin-in-the-Fields. K and I used to go to concerts there quite often but we haven't been for ages - perhaps because the repertoire began to seem a bit repetitive. We certainly haven't been since the church unveiled its new refurbishment in April 2008 - already 18 months ago, and particularly remiss of us since my mother worked on that fundraising campaign. So, while I very much enjoyed the concert - sung by the London Concert Choir, with some really unusual, quite folkish songs sung by them, and the hit parade of traditional carols accompanied lustily by us - I spent quite a lot of time transfixed by the new East Window.

St Martin's is one of London's gorgeous Baroque churches, built in 1726 by the architect James Gibbs. It has a wonderful open and light interior, heightened by the recent restoration of its plasterwork decoration, and its clear glass windows. Its original windows were blown out by a bomb in the Second World War, and as part of the refurbishment the church has commissioned a really significant work of contemporary art. Artists were invited to create a work that "embodied light" and worked in harmony with the historic interior, that would "challenge preconceptions and stimulate debate", as well as encouraging reflection and contemplation. So no small task. But the winning design - by husband and wife artist and architect collaborators, Pip Horne and Shirazeh Houshiary - has really achieved this.

The stainless steel framework ripples outwards from an opaque ellipse that seems to pulse at the centre of the window. I have to say that the resemblance of the window's structure to the crucifixion is the last thing I noticed, perhaps because I am not fully alert to Christian symbolism; but of the surprisingly little information about it I've been able to find online, this seems to be the first thing that people comment on - apparently, following an uncharacteristically tepid remark by Jonathan Glancey in the Guardian about how it resembles a cross reflected in water. But the eye is drawn to the ellipse at the centre, whose oval form recalls one of the key forms of the Georgian architecture around it. All the panes in the window are lightly etched, evoking a motif from Houshiary's paintings apparently, and these etched flecks grow more concentrated the closer they come to the central oculus, so you realise there is a sort of aura around it, which represents the crown of thorns. Of course that means the heart of the window stands for Christ but there is something profoundly moving - intellectually and spiritually - about it being entirely non-figurative, non-representational. An icon for our postmodern world. And because we were there on a wintry late afternoon, we could watch the amazing transformation of the window as the sky grew dark outside...


(with apologies for the not very good iPhone images - plus, as you can see, there was a rather tall chap sitting in the row in front of me!)

As the sun goes down, the ellipse at the centre of the window glows - embodying light, as the commission invited, and a kind of mystical evocation of Christ as the light of the church, the star guiding mankind to Jerusalem at the time of his birth, all those meanings, as well as just a pan-religious symbolism of light for God. We couldn't figure out how this physically happens - is there something in the glass itself that glows, or is it subtly lit from somewhere? If the latter, then the source of this light is entirely invisible, which just adds to the mystery and the effect.

It was a highly controversial design apparently, though I can't find out online exactly why this was. Much of the commentary seems rather patronisingly to focus on the fact that Houshiary is 1) a woman (another Guardian article calls the window "gynaecological"!!) and 2) Iranian in origin: it is therefore exotic, imbued with the inspiration she draws in her art from the 13th-century Sufi mystic, Rumi, non-figurative because her art draws on Iranian artistic traditions - bla bla bla. She might be Iranian but does that mean she is Muslim? My mother couldn't remember but thought she might be Zoroastrian. Anyway, Houshiary trained and has lived and practised in England since 1974. Would she like to be labelled "exotic"?

This is a discussion that is quite current these days, with the growing debate over what "contemporary Islamic art" is, if it even exists. Most contemporary artists surely prefer to see themselves precisely as contemporary artists, practising in a globalised world without borders between artistic disciplines, rather than as "a contemporary artist from Iran" or wherever. Do such pigeon holes make Westerners feel more comfortable?

I was rather shocked to read the comment - posted by 'Highby' in response to the gynaecological Guardian article - that Houshiary "had simply applied the Iranian style. Means, no pictures of humans. Just graphical elements - lines. Arabesques. Geometrical forms". To start with, there seems to me nothing "simple" about this window. And goodness only knows what Highby thinks an arabesque is. But it also smacked of the attitude I often come across in discussions of the Islamic style in art made for Christians or Jews in medieval Spain - what has come to be called Mudéjar. For a long time, the attitude among art historians was (perhaps still is) that if an art work was in an Islamic style, it had to have been made by an Islamic artist or craftsman; there was absolutely no way that a medieval Christian or Jewish craftsman would find the Islamic style appealing and be influenced by it. This always struck me as illogical because why would a wealthy Christian patron spend money on building a church or a palace or commissioning a carpet or a geometric ceiling in an Islamic style if that isn't what they wanted in their material surroundings?

And precisely the same could be said of the St Martin's authorities who chose this window design, which is so profound and beautiful and seems to engage both mind and soul, and work on so many levels.

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Perhaps next year we'll go to the candlelit evening carol concert - the 'family concert', of course, attracts families, mainly parents and grandparents with very young children, who don't much fancy sitting still and quietly through an hour's worth of concert and don't know any of the carols (apart from 'Away in a Manger') so can't join in. There was a particularly grizzly child in the row behind us, and a general low hum of children's restlessness all around us. Still it was fun and put us in the Christmas spirit. In fact with the recent Big Chill and the fact that we have booked our train tickets to Edinburgh to visit my sister for Christmas and New Year, we've been feeling cosy and wintry for a few weeks now.

This was my sister's little car at the beginning of the week:

Almost as much snow as there is car!

The snow has pretty much all thawed now. It happened quickly yesterday. Walking to meet K at the pub on Friday evening, I was slipping and sliding over compressed snow all along St Matthew's Road, but the next morning we woke up to the sound of dripping outside the bedroom window - the sun had come back and it was a little bit rainy. Not before time - I fell down the escalators at Brixton station the other day. I had my walking boots on but it was so slippy on the escalators that there was nothing to grip onto and I couldn't get up again. I floundered for a moment until someone helped me up - I never saw who, just a voice behind me that said, 'Up you get'. My thanks to that good Samaritan.

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I'm making stock and, while I write this, wonderful smells keep wafting up from downstairs. I'm using the carcass of the lemony roast chicken we made a few weekends ago (I froze it in the meantime!) when Gareth was supposed to come round for a long overdue dinner and catch-up, but poor him, his grandmother died and he spent the weekend looking after his grandfather and helping with funeral arrangements... I like making stock: it seems like a good wintry make-do-and-mend thing to do, and a good way to use up old bunches of herbs and random bits of celery and other veggies languishing in the bottom of the fridge. We're planning to use some of this new batch of stock in the rabbit stew we'll be making in a couple of weekends' time - Cornelius and Giles are coming to share it with us. Maybe Gareth will be able to make it over too.

Thursday, 2 December 2010

Snow blanket

Photo taken by Nasa's Terra satellite on 2 December 2010, captured by the University of Dundee satellite receiving station, courtesy of the BBC

We seem to be finishing the year as we started it - covered in snow. But will it be a white Christmas??